One of the traditions here is to put butter on your head. Yes, butter on your head. They do it to babies. Women do it and men do it. Everyone smells a bit like butter, ranging from fresh off the teat to rancid. The other day, I smelled like butter, fresh off the teat butter. I was doing fun rounds. This is when I go chat with the patients and their families, dance with them, sing with them, walk with them, share stories and learn about who they are. It is my favorite time of the day. In one of the rooms the ladies were buttering their heads, so when I peaked my head in I told them how marvelous their buttered hair looked. They told me I needed some on my head. I tried to tell them I
I got buttered!
already have greasy hair, but they were certain this would help my hair shine like no other. So they parted my hair all over the front and piled on the butter. It felt a bit odd finishing fun rounds and coming home with butter on my head, but no one seemed to notice. I must admit that night at the prayer meeting I was a bit distracted because as the butter warmed it dripped down my scalp and onto my face. The ladies had told me though, when it drips on your face just rub it into your skin.
The list of surgeries from the day includes things like debridement of crocodile bite.
I have been told that the most common surgery here is plastic surgery. The removal of a cross tattooed on the forehead so that the women can be house workers in Saudi Arabia. I am not sure I believe it, but it sure makes you wonder.
Feeding the hyenas
At night, you hear the call of the hyenas.
There are certain things in life that we consider universal signs, even though we not be right. A thumbs up is “good job!” Twirling your finger by your ear is “Crazy”. I learned a new one the other day. Take your right pointer finger and place it on the middle of your neck just below your left ear. Now drag it across your throat. Now guess. What does it mean? Let me give you a clue. In America, you may never think of this because we are so removed from the process. That is the universal sign for “meat”. And it is the perfect universal sign. No matter where you live every piece of meat comes from just that, a slaughter.
Local school sign reads, “Typinj School”. Good thing it isn’t a spelling or proof reading school or I would be real hesitant to go there.
The other day as I was sitting on a patient’s bed and talking to her. I realized that her hospital blanket seemed to move. Little movements, also known a small bugs. I continued the conversation, but grabbed the bug and tried to smash it. My fingers must be too soft because it survived the crushing of the thumb the forefinger. Next came out the nails. I decapitated him and flung him across the room. I would have put him in the trash can for a proper burial, but there aren’t any in the rooms. As I was ending the life of the little lice like creature, I continued to talk to the patient about her recovery. She had no complaints. For some reason I kept getting distracted and looking for more bugs.
A popular trend in the pants here is the holey crotch ones. I do not think it is a fashion statement. Either most pants wear out first in the crotch or they cut them. I suppose cutting them isn’t entirely out of the question. It would help keep you cool on a warm day, make the bathroom stop that much easier and with a language that requires you know the sex of the person you are talking to it sometimes helps to clarify.
One day, I was walking down the hall and a man was unconscious in his bed from a head injury. He had an IV bag of orange fluid hanging. I wondered what it might be, so I got a closer look. Bubbly, orange stuff. I couldn’t believe it, so I asked the family, “Is this Miranda (an orange pop/soda)?”. It was. I was relieved to see that the tube didn’t lead into his arm, but his nose.
Your day in the operating room is determined by the weather. Yes, the weather. All of the drapes and gowns are hand washed and then hung to dry. We have now started the rainy season. You may have 11 cases scheduled for the day, but only do 2 because there are no more gowns or drapes. There is also a nation wide shortage of gauze. Almost everyday there is something that prevents us from doing all of our cases. And no, we do not stop for things like no electricity (well, maybe in the middle of the night on an elective case) and no water.
Let me just repeat. Very few people know how old they are…
A "35" year old patient
Didn’t I tell you about the butter! Don’t they know that when you drop your bread it always lands butter side down? I thought they should put the butter on the other end.
Hey adventure woman, getting buttered up is better than getting creamed. Your “35″ year old patient needs more butter. Jody Boyd says to say Hi to you from Togo. Jane and I are 2 weeks into our 3 week trip here. Jody is coming on full time to help them set up the new OR in Mango up north. My case load has been interesting, but nothing like yours. Proud of you doing a year in the govt hospital. Your stories would not be believed if I didn’t know you. So what’s up with the laminated name tag in your “35″ yr old picture.
I agree about the 35 year old woman. She either needs more or it isn’t working!!! Tell Jody hello! How exciting for jody to be up at Mango. Yes I wear a Mercy Health Partners name tag. It has my name and more importantly my color to let all the Ethiopians know who I am.
It sounds like quite the adventure that you are having. Rebecca and I went to Deanna’s (Our 14 year old Daughter) Girls On The Run at Reeths Puffer School and this was her last year to participate; but we as her parents were proud that she finished although it was not first place; Rebecca, myself and Deanna’s grandparents were also proud.
Dear Stephanie,
We cry and grieve and pray over your blog entries that are full of the struggle and hardship of the people and work there. It was really a blessing to catch a glimpse of some of the differences that are fun and funny and less tragic.
I felt like I just took a “deep, cleansing breath” along with you. It is easy to see that God has prepared you and carries you through this amazing and vital work you are doing!
Blessings dear one!
I see something in the back ground (with your 35 year old patient) that I NEVER saw the entire time in Ethiopia (other than at the hilton) plastic bottles. Especially a plastic soda bottle. We only saw glass.
There are tons of plastic bottles everywhere!
LOVE your humor Stephanie! Can’t believe what you go through over there, and only someone with a great sense of humor – on top of tons of courage and compassion – could come up with your funny interpretations. Thanks for the laughter and your willingness to laugh at yourself!
My husband and I were in Soddo just a few days ago. We were able to visit and meet our little boy for the first time. We are now his parents! We printed out your blog and are reading it from cover to cover. We are learning so much….. I have shared your blog on fb and hope you will receive more followers who can pray for you and make comments. Thanks for keeping this blog… “May God give you strength, love, and courage..”
Congrats on your new little boy! The beginning of another chapter of life. Thank you Jodi!
Hi Stephanie, I just came across your blog tonite and will spend much time reading it. Our son is from Wolaita and we visited 7 months ago and spent a night in Soddo. He is 5 and we just brought him home (7 mths ago) so he tells us many stories about his life there. I really loved hearing you mention about the Hyenas because that is such a fear of his as soon as the sun goes down. And even in our house is afraid.
I wanted to mention that our friend grew up in Soddo because her parents were missionaries and her dad built the hospital that I believe you are working at. It was in the mid 70′s. She now lives in Addis but told us many stories of Soddo during the 70′s and about building the hospital. Could you tell me if there is a TB hospital there?
Congratulations on motherhood or motherhood again! How nice that he can tell you stories from here and even communicate his fears. You should show him the picture of me feeding the hyenas. It was taken in Harar, Eastern Ethiopia. The town has for years fed the hyenas every night so that they will leave the towns people at peace. The hyenas have names and are more tame than wild ones, but still wild. The city is a walled city and they have hyena doors to let them come and go freely. At night people also leave food out for them to eat. I found it fascinating the way they chose to embrace their fear.
Is your friend Harold Adolph’s daughter?
Alert Hospital is an infectious disease hospital in Addis. Their focus is on Leprosy, TB and HIV. I do not know if there are any other hospitals that are specifically for TB.
Hi Stephanie –
I just learned of your blog today and have been reading it with great interest!
My husband and I are about to travel (for the 2nd time) to Ethiopia, to pick up the two children we are adopting (ages 5 and 3). They were born in the Wolayta region and we plan to visit their birth community in about two weeks, during our time in Ethiopia.
I so admire what you are doing, and wish you God’s blessings on your work.
I have passed along the link to your blog to a friend of mine who is also an ObGyn (and a Christian), who has been working in Uganda for several years…I suspect you would have much in common!
I look forward to following along with your journey!
Blessings,
Ruth
Selam Stephanie, My Aunt, Laura Zuidema, just connected me to you sight. I was in Addis and Awassa last year and am heading back to Addis and Nazarteth/Adema late June. I work for Bethany Christian Services (and we are partners with Yezelalem Minch) and we are doing a lot of social services, foster care and adoption in Ethiopia, I am very moved by your work as well and wish I could move there for a few years to do more. My heart is always in Ethiopia! I wish you the best in your work and if I can bring you anything when I am there in June I am happy to try… I can always leave it at the Bethany office if you are in Addis at all. Look forward to following your journey!
Thank you Sarah. If I think of anything I need I will let you know! When are you coming? I think I will be back in Addis the weekend of June 19th to drop off some friends that are working/visiting.
I arrive on the 23rd of June…
I am just going to miss you in addis. I hope you have a great trip.
Ok, so I know you wrote this a few months back but I just read it for the first time today and have to say the part about the cross tattooed on the foreheads is probably true. I have several female students from Ethiopia that have that tattoo or looks like they had it at one time (perhaps it has faded or they tried to remove it- or maybe not enough butter?). And I know a lot of people from East Africa go to Saudi Arabia to get jobs in hotels, etc. Some of my students lived in Saudi Arabia for several years before coming to the U.S.
I also find that many of my students don’t know their birthday and a lot of them say it is January 1st. I have heard this is for several reasons. Do you have people telling you that for a birthdate often? Just curious! Miss you.
Breanne, as for the birthdays most have no clue. If the grew up in Addis or their parents are educated they know there birthday, including the year. For those that know the year they were born, they say their birthday is Meskerem 1, the first day of the New Year. In our calendar that is Sept 11. I guess they converted over to the Gregorian calendar with that one, so Jan 1 it is. Very interesting!! They all probably wonder why we ask or care.